the lustre of silk

lustre (1), ( USA) luster /ˈlʌstə(r)/ lustre (2) /ˈlʌstə(r)/ (to) lustre, ( USA) (to) luster /ˈlʌstə(r)/

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

These are silk yarns mainly used for warps. Care is taken not to give too much twist, since the twisting reduces the lustre. Organzine is produced by slightly twisting together several filaments, and then twisting two or more such singles together to form the required yarn. The first is Z twist, the doubling is S twist. The turns vary from 9 up to 30 per inch according to the fabrics the yarn is to be used for. Satins require a fairly soft twist of 10 to 11 turns, yarn for velvet about 15 to 20, and grenadines, voiles, etc., up to 30. Organzine was first produced in Italy and not till 1718 did English silk spinners make a silk strong enough for warp (see silk yarns)

A semifinished product for the manufacture of silk fabrics dyed in the yarn. The process of brightening is intended to increase the lustre and scroop of the silk.

A very high lustre all-silk fabric, used for hat and dress trimmings. Dyed in metallic colours as gold, black, steel and copper. Made 24 in., about 80 X 160 per inch, satin weave, 150 denier warp and 90 denier weft. Cire (French for wax). The black sorts are very common.

Loosely twisted silk yarn consisting of two or more threads, used for weft. The name is obtained from the French word "trame" which means "weft". It is a thrown silk, and has much less twist than organzine, is softer, more bulky, with more lustre. There are about 2 to 5 turns per inch, for with less twist there is more lustre, and weft is not required to be as strong as organzine warp.

This term is applied to silks which have been entirely degummed in the skein, and is applied equally to weighted silk and to pure dyes. When the natural gum has been removed, and the silk rinsed, it then shows the full lustre, and is now known as " boiled-off silk."

A name given by the Japanese to waste made in reeling silk and is the best known. It is costly as waste silk goes and is of a good colour and length of fibre without lustre.

Dyed silk yarn that has been treated after dyeing to a special process which gives lustre and softness by twisting and winding the filaments under pressure.

A thrown silk yarn, rather harsh and with little lustre. Only about 3 per cent of the gum has been removed. Largely used for gauze making.

Plain-weave silks, woven in India on hand looms. Both warp and weft are even threads and the cloth is well woven and has a natural lustre. Very little is exported.

['lutʃido] lucido (-a) ['lutʃido] 1. 2.

The process to produce lustre on the silk filament after dyeing, by twisting and winding the filaments around each other under pressure; a hank of yarn is hung upon a peg, and the operator passes a stick through the bottom part and twists and wrings first one way and then the other, until he decides the lustre is sufficient.

Specially hard-twisted yams, containing from 30 to 70 turns per inch and produced in singles and doubled. The usual range is 40's to 100's single, 2/80's to 2/200's doubled. The yarns are used for voiles, crepe-de-Chines and fabrics where the aim is to produce crinkles through the strong tendency of the yarns to contract in length. In cotton, yams are made up to six- or nine-fold for special purposes. Crepe yarns are also produced in wool, silk and rayon. An official definition states: Silk, rayon, cotton or wool threads may be given a twist of a specific number of turns per inch. The thread contracts in the twisting, and the evenness of the twist, the type of twist, and the number of turns determines to a definite degree the character of the face of the texture for which the twisted yarn is used. The twist in the yam is set by a process of steaming. The twist co-incidently increases the strength of a thread to a limited extent. The twist may have a bearing upon the lustre of woven or knitted fabrics and upon the capacity of dye penetration and absorption. A crepe yarn may consist of a single thread twisted one way, or of several threads joined by throwing into one thread by a combination of twists.

A cheap, twisted cotton thread with a high lustre in imitation of silk. It does not produce the effect that silk thread does, nor does it launder so well as mercerised cotton.

The Chinese name for the very brilliant and transparent fabrics made from ramie (see Ramie). These fabrics are known as "grass cloth" in England. The decortication of the fibre is carried out by hand, and they can be separated to almost the fineness of silk. The fibre is remarkably white and almost equal to bleached cotton in colour. It also has a lustre which excels linen in this respect. The cloths made vary from very fine muslin type, up to heavy plain, such as 60 X 60, 14/14 (cotton counts)

I [ʃiːn] 1. сущ. 2. прил.; поэт. 3. гл.; поэт. II [ʃiːn] сущ.; уст.; разг. III [ʃiːn] сущ.; амер.; уст.; разг.

A finish for wool and silk velvets which imparts a flat dull surface under which the lustre of the pile shows as through a fine invisible gauze.